How to Do Winter Glamping Right (Among Saguaros in Arizona)

When I told my friends I would be spending the first part of my holidays sleeping in a tent, I was met with a few blank faces and a couple polite exclamations of "Oh!" I don't exactly scream camper: I like to be outside, but I like being comfortable more. Camping (a.k.a. sleeping on the ground and foregoing access to a bathroom) isn't on my bucket list. But when given the opportunity to leave blustery New York for a winter glamping trip in sunny Tucson, Arizona, I couldn't possibly say no.

Before you @ me, I know glamping is not camping (it’s better). Glamping (glamorous camping) isn't anything new—years ago, the Internet caught on to a whole other breed of nature lover, one that enjoyed hiking, rafting, and riding horses, but prefered to tuck into a king-sized bed rather than a sleeping bag. Companies like Collective Retreats, Posh Primitive, and Under Canvas emerged, offering travelers an opportunity to stay and explore many of America's National Parks without foregoing amenities. With outposts in picturesque places like Zion and the Great Smoky Mountains, guests can break new ground in style.

After finding success in the summer months, Under Canvas launched its first winter campground this December in the hills of the historic Tanque Verde Ranch. The 150-year-old property is already a destination worth visiting, nestled amongst the Rincon Mountains adjacent to Saguaro National Park and Coronado National Forest. And through April 2019, America's oldest dude ranch is playing host to Under Canvas’s 26 safari-style tents.

Upon arrival, I learned that there might be a bit more camping in my glamping than I initially expected. When the temperature dropped at night, I would have to make my own fire in a stove, and showering required holding a chain down with one hand, shampooing with the other. But those inconveniences were quickly forgotten as I took in the view of the desert landscape—pink peaks stretching as far as the eye could see, with head-high saguaros standing at attention—that I was suddenly surrounded by. My tent came equipped with its own personal deck, ideal for watching the sunrise. When it came time for bed, cozy blankets were plentiful. At the start of camp, a “lobby” tent is set up with coffee, hot chocolate, heaters, and couches with an ample amount of board games—plus ingredients for s’mores. There would be no digging around in a backpack for snacks! (In fact, no outside food is allowed.)

Though it was tempting to stay cuddled close to my tent, watching the desert days unfold, activities abound at Tanque Verde: Between multiple opportunities to ride horses (there are 196 of them) throughout the day to lengthy hikes, tennis lessons, and mountain biking, I experienced the environment in many ways. During down time, relaxation awaits at La Sonora Spa. The outdoor pool is a nice spot for a dose of Vitamin D (especially for those escaping snowy climes this season) and the saloon is the perfect place to start, or end, your evening. Southwestern cuisine is served in the dining hall and on certain evenings, a cookout with live music, javelina sightings, and plenty of prickly pear margaritas replace a traditional dinner. One of the ranch's best delights is a morning ride to breakfast. Guests travel on horseback through the Saguaro cacti, arriving to a full breakfast spread (including the ranch's famous blueberry pancakes), eaten together at picnic tables.

Ranch attire is very casual with most sporting boots (my pair of Tecovas served me well), old jeans, and of course, cowboy hats. Makeup seems to become unnecessary, but sunscreen is essential (as well as layers, especially when embarking on a three-hour morning hike when the temperature can shift nearly 20 degrees).

If the bucolic Western experience begins to overwhelm, downtown Tucson is less than 20 miles away. The city has outgrown its college town reputation and boasts a number of worthwhile shops, restaurants, and bars, mostly locally owned. Lunch at retro Welcome Diner will sustain you as you walk through the Mercado District, known for its farmer’s markets and boutiques such as Mast, which sells locally made jewelry, bags, and prints, among other trinkets. Stop at Hub for unique ice cream flavors—Oatmeal cookie dough! Cornbread and honey!—before venturing to Desert Vintage. The shop is any vintage lovers dream, conveniently located next to Exo Roast, where the Chiltepin Cold Brew will propel you into the evening (the combination of chocolate and chiltepin pepper is pleasantly delicious). Hotel Congress which is celebrating its 100th birthday this year, is the ideal spot to grab a drink and see live music.

While the proximity of town was truly a comfort while sleeping alone in my tent (the sound of owls hooting was a frank reminder that I was definitely outside), glamping was the perfect measured escape from reality, and a reminder that I could handle a little DIY: Making my own fire made me feel self-reliant, and making s’mores brought me back to childhood fun, before my iPhone could document it. Will I do it again? Let’s just say I’ve already started planning my summer vacation which will, in fact, take place in a tent.