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Standing hip-deep in waders, I watch my dry fly bob among pale morning dun mayflies emerging from their nymphal shucks. It drifts through an eddy, a whirlpool created from water swirling in a reverse current, then settles into a seam, the convergence of fast and slow currents. In my search for adventures that are pandemic safe, I’ve discovered a whole new world in the structure of a river.
Matt Heron, a renowned fly-fishing instructor with over three decades of experience, says he can see monster trout feeding in the seam. Just when a glare blinds me, Heron yells from the other side of the eddy, “Set! Set! Set!” He shuts one eye and cringes, hoping I will not miss the opportunity to land my first fish on a fly rod, as I already have three times that morning. I sweep the rod to my right at a 45-degree angle towards the bank, so a hook about the size of my nail can set itself in the trout’s mouth.
“Let go!” Heron reminds me to release my finger on the line. The rod bends. The line strips away. Heron shouts instructions, but I can only hear my heart pounding. It’s not until I’m kneeling in the river with an eighteen-inch rainbow trout breathing in my hands, its black-spotted, bluish green yellow body shimmering, that a smile breaks free. After a few unsuccessful photos together where the trout refuses to cooperate, I release her underwater. Rivers remind us to let go, to respect that sometimes things don’t go the way we want them to, and that’s okay.
Here, five river destinations to inspire your next socially distant adventure. Given the risks associated with plane travel at the moment, we’re thinking of these as drive-to destinations for those in-state or nearby. But no matter where you’re traveling from, make sure to check local travel restrictions.
Truckee River, California
Besides offering private guided trips on the Truckee River year-round, Matt Heron Fly Fishing hosts a free podcast and nationally-recognized daily classes. Running at half-capacity by reservations only, The Truckee River Raft Company provides the raft in Tahoe City and you paddle down Truckee River. Rent clear-bottom kayaks from Wild Society to see the bottom of Lake Tahoe, which flows into Truckee River, and shop at their boutique for island chic décor, clothing, and jewelry. Soar Truckee’s thermals (columns of rising air) up to 13,000-feet in a glider with Truckee Tahoe Soaring Association and trace the flow of water from Lake Tahoe to Truckee River on route to Nevada’s Pyramid Lake. Walk across a 50-foot-long suspension cable at the top of a vertical 800-foot climb on the four-hour Tahoe Via Ferrata tour and catch a glimpse of the lake. Then celebrate your bravery on Auld Dubliner Irish Pub’s patio with their perfectly-poured Guinness and fish and chips.
Granlibakken Tahoe has socially distant entrances to each town-home with access to an outdoor heated pool and tennis courts. Surprise your kid with an Indoor Campout Package at the Ritz-Carlton at Lake Tahoe, which includes a tent in your room set up with a featherbed, teddy bear, activity book, and s’mores kit. At Wolfdale’s Cuisine Unique, on their deck overlooking Lake Tahoe, try a glass of Summer Alpenglow, a generous glass of refreshing watermelon juice and gin, with a richly textured paella made from lobster, prawns, scallops, crab, andouille, spinach, mushrooms, and saffron rice. Be sure to read GoTahoeNorth.com Know Before You Go information.
Napa River, California
Search for striped bass in the Napa River, which splinters into tidal sloughs, mud flats, and the wetlands of the Napa-Sonoma Marshes. Wombat Charters will also show you where the migrating waterfowl, shorebirds, and other wetland habitat animals nest. I’ll never forget the way a red-tailed hawk launched into the sky, extending a wingspan of about 50 inches and stared down the wind, laced with a brewing storm, without flapping its wings. Fly in a hot air balloon over the Napa Valley Wine region within a clear-vinyl partitioned section of the basket. Ride the only aerial tram in the area at Sterling Vineyards, where reservations and masks are required for all their experiences. Their Diamond Mountain Family Experience allows parents to enjoy a flight of red and white wines while kids are entertained with their own treats.
Long Meadow Ranch’s wine tastings are paired with a cheese and charcuterie board, while outdoor dining—with fresh ingredients from their farm, ranch, and vineyards—is available at the restaurant, Farmstead. Grove at The CIA at Copia configures their garden for three-course, prix fixe suppers. Sink your toes in the grass below your table and inhale the scent of pomegranate trees while cooling off with their featured cocktail (the bourbon sweet tea is divine with summer peach tea, bourbon, and lemonade). Michelin-starred restaurant La Toque, located at The Westin Verasa Napa, requires guests to complete a health declaration form, a temperature check before being seated, and mask requirements whenever placing orders and anytime you leave your table. They've pivoted during COVID to an expansive patio outdoor space that still serves Black Australian Winter Truffles in the summer, which Chef Frank (also known as King of Truffles) reminds us is a rare treat. From January to May, stay at Calistoga Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection, where you can hear the sound of a running creek twisting around rustic luxury lodges built with outdoor showers and living rooms. Or experience Calistoga's mud and mineral water therapies and soak in the geothermal pools of their sister property, Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection.
New River Gorge National River, West Virginia
“When you’re on the river, nothing else matters,” says Heather Johnson, who grew up on New River Gorge. Whether you're floating downstream on a tube or paddling raging ClassV+ whitewater, “all of life's pressing issues seem to ebb away and you're at peace with nature, yourself and others.” Johnson owns and operates River Expeditions with her husband. Their COVID protocols include limited guests per raft and pre-packaged meals. Kids ages 6-11 raft free with a paying adult. Camping and cabin rentals are free on the fourth consecutive night.
From raft guide to river manager to designer of rafts to owner of Pro River Outfitters and New River Jet Boats, Bobby Bower is the guide you want for fly fishing from a raft. He is the father of two kids and says, “There is rarely a week that goes by that we don't share our passion for the river with our children. Most parents dream of their offspring becoming a doctor or lawyer. I just want ours to love, be kind, and enjoy whatever course they choose. I think growing up on the river will certainly help guide them in the right direction. I truly believe the river cleans the negativity from your life.”
The Cathedral Café, in Fayetteville, is both the best breakfast spot in town and a community gathering place for locals to host fundraisers and exchange announcements. For lunch, try the wings at Pies and Pints, dry rubbed and marinated overnight in sriracha hot sauce, citrus, garlic, and cilantro along with their unique pizzas and craft beer. Then there’s The Station, known for seasonal produce and locally produced food. A favorite is their blueberry and bacon crostini, made of local blueberry and balsamic reduction, bacon, creamy goat-cheese spread and micro greens.
Rock Creek, Montana
On the patio of your cabin facing Rock Creek, sip a glass of wine in a cedar soaking tub at The Ranch at Rock Creek. As the world’s first Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star Guest Ranch, The Ranch designs an all-inclusive rate structure with year-round experiences that keep guests active but socially distanced such as fly fishing on Rock Creek, a blue-ribbon trout stream (highest fish counts in the state), horseback riding, photography workshops, biking, and shooting sports. Unwind with unlimited premium beer, wine, and spirits. Booking is only at 70% capacity due to COVID and all meals are served outdoors.
Taylor River and Gunnison River, Colorado
Known for their world-class food, five-star accommodations, and individually tailored outdoor adventures, Eleven Experience might be your solution for a multigenerational vacation on a river. Buy out their riverfront eight-cabin retreat or rent them individually. Here you can fly fish from a stocked rainbow trout pond or private and semi-private stretches of rivers or creeks that yield big fish, high catch rates, and low pressure. After rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, rock climbing, or horseback riding in Taylor Canyon, dine in your own kitchen with a meal prepared by a private chef, then relax in a hot tub, sauna, steam room with all-inclusive house alcohol.