Runway

The Genius of Alber Elbaz, as Seen by Vogue

“Since October 2001 [Alber Elbaz] has honored Lanvin’s tradition of unblushing femininity with impeccable tailoring and imaginative grace,” noted Vogue. “Luxe jewelry and lavish embroidery are his signature adornments, along with tulle and silk galore.” Here the designer appears with Caroline Trentini in an ensemble of his creation.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, September 2004

Many of the photographs of Alber Elbaz’s work in the Vogue archive were taken in the studio, and it’s not difficult to understand why. Not only did the designer translate his own essential sunniness into explosions of happy color, but he was also an ace at crafting irresistibly seductive forms. There are bell skirts with their own sort of ring tones, fantasy sleeves to rival those of the Belle Époque, and curvy, flirtatious peplums.

Vogue once described Elbaz’s work for Lanvin as “powerfully pretty,” and indeed it was. The designer’s use of exposed seams and zippers kept the fecund femininity of it all from becoming saccharine and called attention to the craft of dressmaking and the handwork involved.

Despite his great gifts, no designer had more humility, or more humanity, than Elbaz. His special touch and warmth are preserved in these photographs that will forever document the talent of a designer and friend to all who was lost much too soon.

“The fabrics are airy, the cut unconstricting—fluidity is the key word. Pictured: [Raquel Zimmermann] in a Lanvin lichen silk dress with sequined bust.”Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 2004
“French style is about femininity, simplicity, and individuality,” Alber Elbaz told Vogue. “And I think women today are really looking to embrace those qualities.” Left to right: Julia Stegner, Caroline Trentini, Heather Marks, Raquel Zimmermann, and Hana Soukupova, all in clothes by Lanvin.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, January 2005
Caroline Trentini wears a satin-and-velvet cocktail dress by Lanvin.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 2005
“It’s no wonder Hollywood's coolest young stars have embraced Alber Elbaz—his collections for Lanvin possess all the soigné elegance of Tinseltown’s Golden Age goddesses,” noted Vogue. Here, Lily Donaldson in a white satin dress.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, September 2005
Gisele Bündchen in a winning dress by Lanvin. Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, September 2005
Keira Knightley as Dorothy in Lanvin, with Jasper Johns, John Currin, and Brice Marden as the Cowardly Lion, Tin Man, and Scarecrow, respectively.Photographed by Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, December 2005
Sasha Pivovarova and Lily Donaldson in Lanvin trying out what what Vogue described as “Alber Elbaz’s solution for sexy dressing: slits and sky-high platforms.” Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, April 2006
Gisele Bündchen wears a poppy-red Lanvin dress.
Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, July 2006
Linda Evangelista in neon brights from Lanvin.Photographed by Steven Klein, Vogue, August 2006
Heavy metal meets chrome yellow. Lisa Cant in a dress and necklace by Lanvin.Photographed by Raymond Meier, Vogue, January 2007
Face the music and dance. Hilary Rhoda in a silkscreened and studded Lanvin dress.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, March 2007
“Designer Alber Elbaz looked to the wide-shouldered dresses sketched by Jean Lanvin in the 1930s to invent the extraordinary padless proportion on this washed-satin shift,” Vogue noted. Sasha Pivovarova in Lanvin.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, July 2007
Going for gold. Raquel Zimmermann wears a knit suit, blouse, and necklaces by Lanvin.Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, November 2007
Shaken not stirred. Raquel Zimmermann wears an LBD with edge, from Lanvin.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, July 2008
“‘There’s tension between the ice blue satin and the more severe cuts,’ sys Alber Elbaz, whose clothes are often so technical they could rival space science,” wrote Vogue. Lanvin outfit worn by Jourdan Dunn.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, January 2009
“The big shoulders, nipped waist, peplum jacket, and pencil skirt reference ’40s film noir—and the genre’s provocative mix of modesty and magic,” wrote Vogue of this Lanvin total look worn by Karlie Kloss.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, July 2009
Raquel Zimmermann roughs it, the Lanvin way.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, October 2009
Hip to be square: Natalia Vodianova wears a boxy Lanvin suit.Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, July 2010
Flower power: Raquel Zimmermann in Lanvin.Photographed by Steven Klein, Vogue, August 2011
Yellow, not mellow. Xiao Wen Ju wears a Lanvin dress.Photographed by Tim Walker, Vogue, September 2012
Green light, go. Karlie Kloss wears a Lanvin peplum dress.Photographed by David Sims, Vogue, September 2012
Bold color from Lanvin, modeled by Raquel Zimmermann.Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, December 2012
Wrote Vogue: “Alber Elbaz wowed the runway crowds with his mastery of, well, everything, including this buoyant cocktail mix of nude leather and satin. It's tailoring for eclectic dressers who enjoy the adrenaline rush of the unique.”  Here, Carolyn Murphy in Lanvin.Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, July 2013
Cara Delevingne wears a Lanvin look that combines florals with deconstruction.Photographed by Karim Sadli, Vogue, October 2013
A shining moment: Malaika Firth in Lanvin.Photographed by Craig McDean, Vogue, January 2014
Raquel Zimmermann wears an enchanting Lanvin look.Photographed by Mikael Jansson, Vogue, September 2015