June Ambrose's impact on fashion is undeniable: the dominance of streetwear, the influx of hip-hop performers in high fashion campaigns, and sneaker culture can all be traced back to the template that Ambrose created in the 1990s. As the stylist for high profile artists like Jay-Z, Missy Elliott, and Diddy, she connected music with the world of European luxury, dressing her clients in looks that remain iconic to this day. Missy floating through the “The Rain” video in a glossy patent leather, Diddy walking through a halo of lights in his shiny suit in “Mo Money, Mo Problems,” and Jay-Z's and his dapper nightclub suiting in "Excuse Me, Miss"—the list goes on. The imagery would change the relationship between fashion's old guard and rap's power players, and go on to influence a generation of designers who grew up immersed in MTV.
Twenty-five years on and Ambrose remains powerful, her reach having expanded into films (she created look of Hype William's now classic 1998 crime drama, Belly) TV hosting, writing, and now design. This morning, Puma announced Ambrose’s role as their new creative director, putting her at the helm of one of the world's biggest brands. Set to advise and design across multiple categories, she's eager to visually and philosophically take Puma into new territory. "This was definitely on my bucket list," she shared on the phone. "To be in a position where I'm part of the development and in those meetings where we decide what we should be representing and how we can truly grow."
Ambrose has never minced words about fashion's ability to impact society, and by viewing style through that lens, her contributions have had a wide-reaching effect. "There are very few people that indisputably shift culture," says music legend Jay-Z, her frequent collaborator, and close friend. "That is something June has done for over 25 years. Her pure energy and spirit come to life through her fashion and designs." The artist's belief in Ambrose's talents led him to introduce her to Puma CEO Bjørn Gulden and global director of brand marketing Adam Petrick, following Jay’s involvement as creative director of the brand's Hoops range in 2018. "When he partnered with Puma, I got to see the brand [through] one of my closest friends. We always talk about legacy, about how we can leverage what we have done over the years to have a positive impact," Ambrose adds.
Her conversations with Gulden and Petrick convinced her that a partnership could be fruitful, while both men were impressed by her vision and scope. "When I spoke to Adam, I knew that collaborating with Puma would be a beautiful experience and that it would transcend beyond the products," says Ambrose. "We can do things that impact the culture like what we did with music videos, and Black music in the ’90s and early ’00s. We were able to go global and change the narrative."
Though talks about the project began before the coronavirus pandemic and 2020's ongoing protests against police violence, the year and its events have shaped Ambrose's goals. "Timing is important," she says. "Right now, a light is being shined on these issues. I've always felt a calling to create with purpose. I don't want just to make clothes, I want people to feel fearless and inspired, to create a space where young men and women feel empowered on and off the court and use that to disrupt things a little bit." To that end, Ambrose plans to amplify some of Puma's existing charitable initiatives and spearhead new ones that put the brand's international reach to good use. “They're already working with several organizations that focus on fighting inequality in race, gender, and sexuality, which was very important to me," she says. "Using my voice to amplify that will be one of the most fulfilling parts of the next chapter of my career."\
Collaborations between brands and stylists are becoming more prevalent, but the idea that a stylist could helm a collection is still relatively new. As Ambrose describes, in the early ’90s, the distinctions between fields were incredibly rigid. "Everyone was so segregated. Costume designers did films, stylists did editorial or advertising," says Ambrose. "I bridged both and [thought] how we can change the narrative to create these editorial and cinematic experiences within a short form genre." Her tenacity was about necessity as much as creativity. Long before Cardi B starred in Balenciaga ads and A$AP Rocky became the face of Dior, brands were reluctant to align themselves with hip-hop and its stars. "Fashion houses and designers didn't even consider it as marketing or an opportunity," says Ambrose. "I remember knocking on many doors, initially, looking to collaborate, or just looking just to borrow a sample and them just not being interested because their focus was the runway." Instead of waiting for access, she set out to define her visual identity looking past the usual suspects and finding various outside influences. "I said, ‘Okay, I don't need to ask for permission and creative license to take control of a situation'" she remembers. "At the time, there were so many references untapped, and there were no rules. I looked Japanese animation, royalty in the 1900s, classic film, biblical references—I've been able to use all of these when designing and creating the world's we were developing [for music videos]."
With more than 200 such videos under her belt, Ambrose's signature style is instantly recognizable. Her ability to create iconic looks is a part of what Puma seeks to tap into, but Ambrose's focus wasn't solely on the outfits when she was on set. Giving each artist the tools to execute their vision and feel their best was an essential part of the job. "My role was to convey possibilities to them. To straighten their invisible crowns and help them understand that it is [through] the character's we're building, we incite change. They were able to articulate their message through lyrical content, but they hadn't put a face to it yet." Ambrose credits her clients for their trust and support. "We did this together, all the celebrities that were my muses, all the directors who collaborated with me, the record labels, actress, performers who saw me during a time when we were so invisible," she says. "I remember walking into one of the big fashion houses, the had heard my name but assumed I was a white woman. They could not believe that this five-foot-two Black costume person was doing all these crazy music videos. It came as a surprise to them. Sometimes you have to validate yourself when others won't. So many times I've had the experience of looking in the faces of my celebrity clients and saying, ‘You got this, you are so worthy.’”
That sentiment of self-worth and pride is something she hopes to share with the millions of Puma fans worldwide. "I've always envisioned being of service to, not just to my community, to my peers, to the future generation," she says. "I know that I have a big responsibility—to show people it's not just about dressing up. [It's] how do we affect change? And how do we use, visually, what we're wearing to tell a story? To feel confident and worthy, and fashion serves as the catalyst to say the things that we want." Fashion will have to wait until 2021 to see what Ambrose has in store for Puma, but she's already gotten one crucial vote of confidence. "[June's] a true visionary and my longtime partner in style," says Jay-Z. "Her creative eye, combined with Puma innovation, will be revolutionary."
Discover more on this episode of The Run-Through with June Ambrose here.