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In light of the Black Lives Matter movement and the COVID-19 crisis, the summer of 2020 proved to be a tremendous period of reckoning for all industries. Within the fashion industry, this has provided a chance to think deeply about the people we champion and those whom we have historically not paid as much heed to. This is especially pertinent in the fine jewelry business.
Randi Molofsky, cofounder of For Future Reference, the fine jewelry brand development agency in New York and Los Angeles, knows that the barrier to entry in the industry is high: “BIPOC designers are historically underrepresented in the fine jewelry industry. Accessibility is the first step in making meaningful change: specifically education, ongoing mentorship initiatives, and financial assistance.” Take the story of Arthur George “Art” Smith, the legendary midcentury Black jewelry designer, as an example. As a student at Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art in the early 1920s, Smith was one of few Black students in his class. Despite the seemingly insurmountable odds stacked against his success, he tapped into a network of mentors early on, including fellow Black jewelry designer, Winifred Mason. Those mentors encouraged him to apply to Cooper Union and supported his career as a jewelry designer.
In honor of Smith and his story, For Future Reference announced in June 2020 that it was establishing the Art Smith Memorial Scholarship Foundation at the Fashion Institute of Technology. The endowment, which was spearheaded by For Future Reference and jewelry designer Brent Neale and supported by 48 additional fine jewelry industry brands, establishes $50,000 worth of scholarships for Black students within the school’s Jewelry Design program. Molofsky’s hope is that the endowment and its impact will in turn “inspire a new generation to consider jewelry as a viable and sustainable career path.”
Large-scale initiatives such as the Art Smith Memorial Scholarship Fund are one way to amplify Black voices in the jewelry industry, but shoppers can also take direct, immediate action by buying from Black-owned brands. Below, find 41 Black-owned and-designed jewelry brands to know, love, and shop from now.
Khiry
Jameel Mohammed, the mind behind Khiry, is unparalleled. After a prominent CEO told him that a luxury brand could only come out of Europe, Mohammed, then an undergraduate student at the University of Pennsylvania, funneled his energy into creating a brand that celebrates the beauty, history, and culture of the African diaspora. Khiry’s bold jewelry is sleek yet simultaneously recalls the beauty of nature.
A.M. Thorne
A.M. Thorne, founded and designed by Ashley Thorne, is a fine jewelry line that emphasizes simplicity and wearability, and draws influences from architecture and femininity.
Adore Adorn
Sasha Flynn’s jewelry brand Adore Adorn is deeply rooted in legacy, family, and love, and Flynn has been inspired by vintage pieces that were passed down through her family.
Aur Jewelry
Bianca Abreu’s love of optics and light is apparent in the jewelry she designs for Aur Jewelry. Each piece reacts to changing light and transforms throughout the day.
Dan-yell
Dan-yell’s small jewelry packs a punch. From delicate pearl necklaces to intricately embellished diamond earrings, Danyell Rascoe seamlessly merges classic and modern elements into her designs.
Edas
Sade Mims has created a cult following through her brand Edas, which features both jewelry and accessories. Mims aims to provide her customers with sustainable statement pieces.
Harwell Godfrey
For those who want bold and detailed statement jewelry, look no further than Harwell Godfrey. Founded and designed by Lauren Harwell Godfrey, the line features references to the four elements, delicate engravings, and each piece is studded with precious gemstones.
Mahnal
Jewelry brand Mahnal, founded and designed by Shayba Muhammed, is a foil to the fast-paced world in which we live. Inspired by Islam and Arabic culture, Mahnal encourages its wearers to embrace a slower more intentional way of living.
Mateo
Self-taught designer Matthew Harris founded Mateo in 2009 with an initial focus on men’s jewelry; however, a women’s capsule collection proved so successful that Harris decided to refocus Mateo toward women’s jewelry. Today, Mateo is known for its elevated yet minimalist designs and approachable price point.
Nandi Naya
Hleziphansi Zita has imbued each piece of her brand, Nandi Naya, with her story and background. Through Nandi Naya, which is named after her eldest daughter, Zita connects her experiences growing up in New York City with African art and culture. Nandi Naya has jewelry for every occasion from colorful beaded necklaces to sculptural earrings and rings.
Octave Jewelry
Octave Jewelry, which designer and founder Opeyemi Omojola makes by hand, is inspired by geometry, organic forms, and the elements. Named after the medical clinic Omojola’s mother founded and led in Nigeria, Octave is a testament to her mother’s strength and determination.
Serendipitous Project
Serendipitous Project’s priority is to provide ethical, affordable, and sustainable alternatives to trend-driven jewelry. Founder Sydney Ziems also sources upcycled and vintage jewelry and accessories to minimize the environmental impact that the fashion industry is known for.
Sewit Sium
Sewit Sium’s eponymous brand is centered around stories, substance, and statements. Sium believes that jewelry can communicate powerful narratives both about the past and who we are today.
White/Space
Behind White/Space is a belief in sustainable practices and elegance over ostentation. Designed by Khadijah Fulton with the modern woman in mind, White/Space jewelry is meant to be worn for years to come and is simultaneously delicate and forceful.
Yam
Years before Morgan Thomas conceived of Yam, her mother brought her a jewelry-making book that planted a seed in the young designer’s head. Founded in honor of Thomas’s late mother, the line features playful yet wearable designs.
Auvere
Auvere, which was founded by husband and wife Steven Feldman and Gina Feldman Love, is a celebration of handcrafted gold jewelry. Their designs range from bold gold medallions to simple stacking bands.
Ten Thousand Things
Ron Anderson and David Rees, the duo behind Ten Thousand Things, came to the jewelry world after successful careers in retail. Their meticulously handcrafted jewelry is inspired by shapes found in nature and features stunning stones such as black opals and rhodochrosite.
Bernard James
Bernard James seamlessly melds modern concepts with traditional techniques in his eponymous jewelry brand. James’ attention to craftsmanship and eye for detail is apparent in his delicate yet highly ornate pieces.
Martine Ali
Martine Ali’s downtown cool, industrial-feeling jewelry is highly recognizable and has been worn by everyone from Kendrick Lamar to Lady Gaga. Her line, which includes silver chain chokers, safety pin earrings, and ID bracelets, is designed to be convertible and customizable.
Fenty
With FENTY, CEO and Artistic Director Rihanna Robyn Fenty seeks to democratize luxury. There is a piece for everyone in Fenty’s jewelry collection: diamante drops, sculptural gold rings, and, naturally, pearls.
Castro NYC
Castro, who founded his brand in 2006, creates wearable works of art, and his pieces are the stuff of dreams. His collection, which he releases in limited quantities each year, includes gem-encrusted locks, epic rings, and bedazzled animal charms.
Lorraine West
Lorraine West’s mother is the inspiration behind her namesake jewelry brand. Her mother’s affinity for ornate jewelry is apparent in West’s own line of geometric statement pieces.
We Dream in Colour
Jade Gedeon’s environmentally conscious brand We Dream in Colour is an amalgamation of the different countries and cultures she grew up in. Hammered metals, nature motifs, and celestial figures are common themes throughout.
Vanleles
Vanleles is jewelry for the modern woman. Designer Vania Leles conceived the brand as a way to share Africa’s history and culture through ethically-sourced and responsibly-mined fine jewelry.
Omi Woods
Omi Woods, which was founded and designed by Ashley Alexis McFarlane, is a contemporary jewelry line made from fair trade African gold and conflict-free metals.
Shola Branson
Self-taught jeweler Shola Branson’s love of jewelry began after spending countless hours in museums among ancient artifacts. His jewelry line, which is made with recycled precious metals, exists in the liminal space between ancient and modern.
L’Enchanteur
L’Enchanteur, the brainchild of identical twins Dynasty and Soull Ogun, is a clothing, jewelry, and lifestyle brand inspired by spirituality, mythology, and science. Their jewelry line features intricately carved stone signet rings, crystal amulet necklaces, and figurative gold earrings.
Jam + Rico
Fashion jewelry brand Jam + Rico is an ode to founder Lisette Scott’s Caribbean and Latin American roots. Her bold and colorful designs evoke joy and confidence.
Johnny Nelson
For his eponymous jewelry line, New York City-based designer Johnny Nelson draws inspiration from a diverse array of subjects including punk, hip-hop, and spirituality. His bold statement jewelry, which includes pendant necklaces and multi-finger rings, is deeply steeped in references to Black history.
Third Crown
The New York-based husband and wife team behind Third Crown, Kristin and Kofi Essel, fused their respective design experiences together to create their gender-neutral line of bold, architectural, statement jewelry.
Marei
Angie Marei, who has a wealth of fashion and design experience, channeled her love of travel, the occult, Old Hollywood, Art Deco, and ancient Egypt into her luxurious jewelry brand. With Marei, she has created a jewelry brand that is both timeless and seductive.
JéBlanc
Jeniece Blanchet, the founder and creative director of jewelry line JéBlanc, creates multifunctional, one-of-a-kind items that feature dogtags, crystals, safety pins, and charms.
Concept26
Shari Smith believes that jewelry can be modern, timeless, and fun all at the same time. Her brand Concept26 fuses these ideas with personal and effortlessly cool pieces such as a pavé-adorned gold link bracelet and oval hoop earrings.
Aureliean
Though she was initially trained as a barrister, Elizabeth Harrison turned her side passion into a full-fledged career with her jewelry brand Aureliean. Named after her first-born son, her delicate, gem-adorned pieces are intended to adorn and empower women in all their pursuits.
Emefa Cole
London-based jewelry designer Emefa Cole’s early experiences with jewelry and gemstones inspired her line of powerful metal designs. Her fearlessly bold pieces are for those who wish to stand out.
Valerie Madison
Valerie Madison merged her loves of jewelry and nature with her Seattle-based fine jewelry line. All of Madison’s pieces are handmade from high-quality and recycled materials.
C1V1L
C1V1L Jewelry, Blakely Thornton’s direct-to-consumer brand, is both eco-friendly and reinvests 20% of its profits into underrepresented entrepreneurs through the Civil Fund. Thornton, who graduated from the Wharton School of Business, views C1V1L as a means through which to explore racial equity, gender, class, and disability.
Monique Péan
Monique Péan’s jewelry is handcrafted in New York City using globally sourced, environmentally responsible materials. With pieces such as a ring made from recycled gold, diamonds, and meteorite, Péan explores our relationship to the cosmos through sustainable fine jewelry and objects.
Lola Fenhirst
Lola Oladunjoye founded her fine jewelry company Lola Fenhirst in 2015 after nearly two decades spent practicing intellectual property law in Silicon Valley. Now based and produced in Paris, Oladunjoye imbues her striking, architectural designs with influences from her West African Yoruba heritage.
Jacqueline Rabun
Jacqueline Rabun launched her first jewelry collection in 1990, and was instantly recognized for her expert handling of precious materials and natural forms in a modern context. Rabun’s pieces are wearable works of art.
Almasika
Almasika jewelry, which was founded by Catherine Sarr, is rife with gold and conflict-free diamonds. The soft curves of Almasika’s pieces echo the lines of the body and are designed to be worn from day to night.
