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The real setting of Twin Peaks, a collection of small towns known as the Snoqualmie Valley in Washington State, offers a rare combination of rural respite and good food—if you know where to look. Just 30 to 40 minutes east of Seattle yet thoroughly country (it’s not hard to imagine Laura Palmer disappearing into those woods), the local culture mixes unspoiled Americana with a back-to-the-land idealism. Farm-to-table dining was a given in the Pacific Northwest long before becoming a nationwide trend, and at the peak of summer, visitors can enjoy fresh food right at its source. Against the dramatic setting of waterfalls and craggy mountains, the Snoqualmie Valley is a paradoxical paradise where you’re likely to see goats climbing on broken-down cars one house over from a tech-money mansion, and hunters coexisting with hippies. I know, because I grew up there, in one of the old logging towns along the river.
Watching Twin Peaks is extra-surreal when its iconic locations are places you recognize from your own childhood. Going to the Double R Diner (actually called the Mar-T Café at that time) for strawberry waffles was my favorite birthday treat, and I remember busloads of Japanese tourists passing by our house to photograph the mountain from their favorite TV show (a backdrop to our daily life that I took for granted). The big waterfall was a frequent spot for family outings and school trips, and that bend in the road where the “Twin Peaks” sign was filmed is not far from my favorite swimming hole in the river. And my brother worked at the Great Northern (really the Salish Lodge) during high school. Maybe it’s not quite as dark and weird as the TV show, but the woods can feel creepy even when you’ve grown up hiking and playing in them, and there are a handful of odd folks who live in isolated cabins because they just don’t fit into society.
Here are my recommendations—beyond taking selfies at famous Twin Peaks locations—for a visit to the Snoqualmie Valley.
Eat and Drink
Damn Good . . . Donuts I’m relieved to know that Twede’s Cafe, which Twin Peaks fans know as the Double R Diner, has been restored to look like it did in the ’90s (when locals knew it as the Mar-T). Yes, it really has cherry pie, but it’s not nearly as good as Agent Cooper made it out to be. I suggest taking your photos out front and then walking a few doors up to Georgia’s Bakery (formerly George’s)—which also has plenty of small-town charm—for a turkey sandwich and a maple bar. For those not yet in the know, a maple bar is a rectangular raised donut with a swipe of maple icing, native to the Northwest.
David Lynch’s Favorite Soft Serve at Scott’s Dairy Freeze With sea-foam Adirondack chairs and a neon ice cream cone–shaped sign, Scott’s Dairy Freeze is everything you’d hope from a drive-up. In middle school, I used to walk the two miles into town to meet my friends here and play Ms. Pac-Man. Apparently, it’s a favorite of David Lynch’s, too. Have a cheeseburger and a blackberry shake, or some onion rings and a soft-serve cone.
Drive-Through Espresso Roadside espresso stands are as ubiquitous in the Northwest as hot dog vendors in Manhattan, and locals claim that North Bend’s Huxdotter was the first (I was unable to confirm or debunk this). It still serves the (now nostalgic) mochas and macchiatos that were at the vanguard when Huxdotter opened in 1990.
Table-to-Farm Dining If your timing is just right, book a seat with Outstanding In the Field or Sno-Valley Tilth for a meal from a notable chef served outside on a farm. If you can’t get a spot, make a reservation at The Herbfarm, where the restaurant has served award-winning food from its own garden for 30 years. It moved from the Valley years ago because of a fire, but you can drive there in about 30 minutes along country roads winding through verdant pastures.
Craft Beer at Snoqualmie Brewery Even a small-town grocery in this part of the world dedicates an entire aisle to craft beer (check out QFC in North Bend). To get a hyper-local hops fix, stop by the Snoqualmie Brewery for a flight, or pick up a fresh growler to enjoy once you settle in for the night.
Eat Like a Lumberjack at the Woodman Lodge Talk a stroll around the old Snoqualmie train depot and visit the “big log” (see: What to Do). Then tuck in for a hearty dinner at the Woodman Lodge, an 1802 woodman’s fraternal hall revived as a steak house.
Go Chasing Waterfalls A visit to the Snoqualmie Valley isn’t complete without seeing the spectacular Snoqualmie Falls. After a nice misting on the viewing platform, treat yourself to a four-course breakfast at the Salish Lodge (the Great Northern to Twin Peaks fans), or a cocktail with a view in its upstairs lounge.
What to Do
Take a Hike You’d be remiss to come this close to the Cascades without hiking in them. Mount Si (the twin peaks in Twin Peaks) is the most popular day hike, but not very interesting until you reach the view at the top. The Twin Falls Trail softly winds through mossy forest, past burbling brooks, to a waterfall—or two, depending on how much hiking you want to do. Rattlesnake Ridge offers sweeping views of the Valley after you hike through a forest eerily reminiscent of wooded scenes from Twin Peaks.
Pick a Peck of Berries Do as the locals do and stock your freezer (or your belly) with fresh-picked berries. Try Remlinger Farms for strawberries (and take-home pies), May through June, and Bybee Farms for blueberries (with a view of Mt. Si), July through August. Don’t forget the sunscreen!
Take a Dip in the Snoqualmie River The Reinig Road offers impressive views of Mt. Si and passes that exact place where the “Twin Peaks” sign was planted in the opening credits. Look for a line of parked cars by the roadside, pull over, and follow the dirt path to the water (there are two or three swimming spots along this road). Bracing snowmelt temperatures even in the height of summer are sure to refresh you. The river moves fast, so safety first!
Check Out the “Big Log” and Old Trains You probably won’t run into the Log Lady (though you will encounter some other characters), but you can go see Snoqualmie’s famous “big log.” Yes, really. This slice of old-growth trunk (once ubiquitous in the surrounding hills) is actually quite impressive. From there, wander over to the 1890 depot to look at old trains—you can even ride one on summer weekends.
Old-Timey Shopping True, there’s an outlet mall in North Bend, but it’s a pretty lame one, and this area just isn’t a great destination for shopping. If you must pick up some souvenirs, check out Carmichael’s Hardware, which has been in business for more than a century, or scour the local paper for yard sales and estate sales.
Catch a Movie North Bend’s restored Art Deco theater is worth a visit just for the facade. With only one screen, whatever movie it is showing is literally the only one in town.
Where to Stay
Live Your Childhood Dreams at Treehouse Point Tuck in for a peaceful night’s sleep in your own little tree house, cozy under the canopy of the forest, then let the birds wake you in time for a stroll to breakfast at the lodge at TreeHouse Point. Don’t get spooked if you hear an owl hooting outside your window!
Salish Lodge For die-hard Twin Peaks fans or anyone looking for luxurious accommodations, the Salish Lodge (its exterior is the Great Northern in the TV show) is the spot. If you’re not willing to splurge for the full experience, dip in for a drink, a meal, or a spa treatment.