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Versace may be synonymous with bombshell glamour. But this evening in Milan, designer Donatella Versace conjured up the punk undercurrents that run through the Italian fashion house, paying homage to that gold safety pin embellished gown from the Spring 1994 collection. Tapping into the utilitarian accessory's iconoclast roots—it was, after all, a sartorial mainstay for the likes of The Sex Pistols' Johnny Rotten and The Pretenders' Chrissie Hynde in the '70s—there was a distinct spirit of anarchy above the neck.
"It's definitely Donatella's [take on] grunge," said makeup artist Pat McGrath backstage inside the Palazzo Mezzanotte, underscoring Sudanese-Australian model Adut Akech's waterlines with her Permagel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil in Extreme Blake, and applying FetishEyes Mascara at the roots of lashes. "Undone, but done at the same time." A more refined take on repurposing last night's makeup, a few girls, including Korean stunner Sora Choi, received a stamp of deep crimson, a mix of MatteTrance lipstick in blue red Elson and deep burgundy McMenamy, on the mouth. But make no mistake, this season's woman—supercharged complexion, et al.—is maintaining her punk streak. "Black and red are the colors of true rebellion," explained McGrath.
In stark contrast to the polished blowouts of previous seasons, hair pro Guido Palau also took Donatella's rogue agenda to heart, dousing lengths in Redken's Frizz Dismiss Anti-Static Oil Mist and meticulously sculpting them for a sleek, yet stringy feel. "It's very cool and a little sexy," he explained of the directional look, which also called for fastening petite extensions around the face to give the hair an even more "chunky, textured effect."
True to Versace form, however, there was a dazzling array of gilded baubles that Palau made a point of playing with. Tucked behind the ears of runway regulars Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid were ornate metallic barrettes, while Sara Grace Wallerstedt's cascade of auburn waves were draped in a bejeweled medallion choker, laid over the neck to elegant effect. Imbuing the Versace woman's fierce, feminine beauty with some anti-establishment flair, punk has never looked more glamorous.
