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Jeffrey Rüdes is someone who really thinks about his output—he’s his own customer, and, not only that, he has a real sense of what the well-heeled but stylistically discerning man wants. For Fall, his study stayed in a Californian verve by blending Los Angeleno bohemianism with a ’90s cleanness. The mix was persuasive.

Rüdes admitted to silk shirts being a strong point in his repertoire. Those came in broad, poolside stripes or artfully retro prints. On one side of the scale, there were wide French corduroy trenches, while on the other, he offered a slick and streamlined, rather beautifully constructed topcoat. Those looking for more novelty will find it on a plush jumper, hand-painted with palm trees (which are still, as far as this writer is concerned, a relevant motif).

The smartest thing, though, and more evident now that Rüdes is a few seasons in, is that there’s a conscious familiarity amongst the gentlemanliness. His tuxedos are a good example of that—shawl collars here, some with contrasting pops of color, were narrow and sporty. “Almost formal,” said Rüdes with a smile. Almost, yes, but fully convincing all the same.